Friday, March 28, 2014

Beautiful Bletchley Park and the tragedy of Alan Turing




Beautiful Bletchley Park was purchased by the British Government in 1938 to house the very secret code breaking and intelligence efforts of the Government Code and Cypher School (GC & CS). Located north west of London, it could easily be reached from Oxford and Cambridge but was far enough from London to be deemed safe from a potential air attack which was expected.

At its peak an estimated 10,000 people worked there and in the associated out-stations. It is calculated that the work of the code breakers shortened World War 2 by two years.

It was such a secret place that families of the employees did not know where they worked or what they did. The Germans did not know of the place until 1975 when a former Bletchley worker published a book about the work achieved.

They intercepted, deciphered, analysed and distributed the intelligence derived from enemy radio signals. 

The cyphers were created by an Enigma machine used by the Germans to send supposedly impenetrable codes and cyphers. However mathematicians developed unique data processing machines which sped up the code breaking work of the GC & CS.

The breakthrough came with the development of an incredibly complicated machine later called a Bomba machine devised by three Polish mathematicians who shared their work with the British and the French. (They didn't know what to call it so named it Bomba after a Polish ice cream!!).

In 1939, Cambridge codebreaker and mathematician, Gordon Welchman realised the Enigma machine settings were changed at midnight each night by the Germans. From this information 24 hour shifts were started at Bletchley Park. Welchman and another brilliant mathematician, Alan Turing, inspired by the Polish Bomba machine, developed the Bombe which deduced the day's Enigma settings of both the rotors and the plug board, by eliminating the many incorrect possibilities.

The Enigma machine used rotors to scramble message into unintelligible cypher text. Each machine generated different cypher text and finding those settings which were reset at midnight was the challenge faced by the code breakers. The bombe machine shortened the process.

The work was done in huts around the property. They were dim, soulless places. 
Hut 4 - now a restaurant

If you only do one thing if you ever go to England take a trip to Bletchley Park. It is such an amazing place, so complex and so interesting what was achieved and in total secrecy.

The estate was divided into Huts, each with its own task. Workers in each hut did not know what workers in the other huts were working on and the staff did not know what happened to the messages they deciphered or what significance they played in the war campaign.
The reconstructed Bombe machine
The tragedy of Alan Turing
The mathematician who was the spearhead 
of the brilliance of Bletchley was Alan Turing.
He achieved so much, too much to record here, 
but if you are interested please click on this link.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_turing 
part of which records his death as the following:

Mr Turing was convicted of indecency and 
homosexuality and accepted treatment with 
oestrogen injections (chemical castration
as an alternative to prison. He died in 1954, 
16 days before his 42nd birthday, from cyanide 
poisoning. An inquest determined his death a 
suicide; his mother and some others believed 
it was accidental. On 10 September 2009, 
following an Internet campaignBritish Prime 
Minister Gordon Brown made an 
official public apology on behalf of the British 
government for "the appalling way he was 
treated." The Queen granted him a posthumous
pardon on 24 December 2013.
Below one of the residences now used as administration 
Brilliant mathematician, Alan Turing




The lake in the centre of the property - a peaceful place

The Sunbeam Talbot used in the film, Enigma, starring Mick Jagger, who donated the vehicle to the 
Bletchley Park Trust after the filming.


A little history behind the vehicle


One of the rooms in the mansion which has been faithfully restored 

The property is maintained by English Heritage and now sees many conferences, dinners and weddings which all helps with the running costs of the property. 





Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Matlock in the Midlands, Hardwick Hall and a whirlwind visit to Wales

Matlock in the Midlands

Not Matlock south of Woods Point but not far from Derby in Derbyshire. Our friends, the Buntings welcomed us again. Penny is the daughter of Ken, our friends in Andover, and had stayed with us in Merrijig in June last year during their 10 week tour of Australia. They've seen more of Australia than we have!

The beautiful view from Penny and Rich's house looking across the River Wye valley
They guided us to the English Heritage and National Trust property, Hardwick Hall not far Matlock, where we enjoyed the beautiful gardens for a picnic lunch before venturing inside to this incredibly grand  Elizabethan house.

From left standing, Louise, Laurie, Penny and Millie.
In the front, Izzy and Richard in the orchard at Hardwick Hall
Hardwick Hall

I'll rabbit on a bit about this place so just scroll down if it's all too much.

Taken from the National Trust website:


It was the formidable Bess of Hardwick who first created Hardwick in the late 1500s, but it was Robert Symthson who designed this magnificent house. The new Hall was designed deliberately to symbolise Bess' wealth and status and pushed the boundaries of architectural design.
The most incredible part of this grand place from my point of view are the magnificent Flemish tapestries which hang on the walls in many of the rooms. There are 87 tapestries in all.  Some have been really well restored. Others are waiting this painstaking process.

The Long Gallery - designed to house the
tapestries

The Gideon Tapestries are Flemish and were woven in 1578 for Lord Christopher Hatton, the Lord Chancellor during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. They were sold to Bess of Hardwick in 1591, who at the time was building Hardwick Hall and specifically designed the Long Gallery to house them.


The tapestries are unusual in their massive scale, as each one measures between 5.80 metres and 6.01metres in height, and between 2.40 metres and 8.75 metres in width. Originally these dramatic biblical scenes were full of vibrant colour and made a clear social statement about their owner. While the stunning colours would have overwhelmed the 16th-century visitor, their current condition is barely legible. Faded by sunlight and covered in dirt the original colours can only be appreciated by viewing the reverse of the tapestries.


The Long Gallery is about 150 feet long and roughly 24 feet high, particularly impressive due to the enormous windows.

The rush matting is one of the furnishings that has continued to be used in the house from the beginning, sprinkled with water to refresh it and replaced as necessary.
The Long Gallery - about 150 feet long
The rest of the house is just as magnificent.


Portions of two of the 87 tapestries which adorn the
walls at Hardwick Hall.
The stunning dining room
We then explored outside. The gardens are lovely even at this late-winter nearly-spring time of year. Some of the trees in the orchard are obviously extremely old.
Part of the formal garden
A very old apple tree in the orchard

Some of the striking lines created in the formal part of the garden


Aberdovy - Wales

Our next destination was Aberdovy, Wales. A drive through Snowdonia National Park was a treat. Little villages and beautiful scenery at every turn. Small patches of snow on the mountains and very full lakes.
On the way through Wales
We were travelling to Wales to visit Crona Hodges and her family. Laurie knew Crona from when she was an assistant at Timbertop School.
Crona, Laurie and Louise at Aberdovy in Wales
The beautiful villa of Aberdovy on the coast os Wales

After a beautiful meal with the family, next morning we headed back to Nottingham to return our hire car and jump back on the train to London - about a two hour journey.

Next we visit Bletchley Park - the headquarters of the WW1 British code breakers which was a secret until 1974.  And a few days later to Chiswick House not far from where we live in Kensington.




Monday, March 24, 2014

Old friends, Stonehenge and Turville (Dibley)

Catching up with old friends is always fun so heading south in a hire car for five days was a happy distraction from city life!

A one night stay in the centre of the New Forest at Lyndhurst was a treat meaning we could step out of our B&B into the forest for a lovely walk. The forest is populated by 'wild' ponies - New Forest Ponies - a breed of their own - the property of the Queen. They have free run of the forest and if you skittle one with your car you are in big trouble.
After moths of rain the forest was too wet too
walk through but fine on the tracks

We were heading for New Milton to
visit a friend of my parents. 
They had met many years ago. My 
Dad and Mark Frost were in a German
POW camp during the WW2. They
reconnected in 1977 when my Mum 
and Mark's with Margot hit it off. We've 
kept in touch ever since. Sadly 
Mark died several years ago.

After a wonderful visit and lots of
chatting we headed for Andover to 
catch up with two other friends we had
met in 1975 when we worked in a pub 
at North Waltham called the 
Wheatsheaf Hotel. Ken and Wendy
were stalwart customers at the pub. We
shared similar interest, good wine, 
ale and a wicked sense of humour.
A New Forest Pony quite relaxed at our presence
Dear friends Trish Green with her mum, Margot Frost
and Louise at New Milton on the south coast

                                                                               Ken and Wendy at their Andover home
The Wheatsheaf Hotel where we worked for four months in 1975!
Ken and Wendy's 'local' at the time
Stonehenge

A visit to Stonehenge in Wiltshire is always a must for us. This time it was a beautiful sunny day. Being on a plain it is common for very strong winds to whistle through. We've been when it's been snowing, raining and so windy we could barely stand up! This time we cracked it. Just a stunning day. The new information and interpretative centre is an eyesore from the outside but excellent inside. Looking from the outside you just have to ask why?!?
The riddle of stonehenge is breathtaking. How the enormous stones were transported and erected about 2700 BC is a mystery. More information about this amazing place can be found at https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/stonehenge

The new information centre which detracts from the site but is excellent inside

A 10 minute shuttle bus takes us to the henge itself. You used to walk from the old centre to the stones. 
Laurie stops for a moment to admire the incredible sight. 
An audio tour with personal handset helps visitors to understand more about the stones
This heel stone looks more like a dolphin smiling

After enjoying the wonders of Stonehenge we headed for Turville - the Vicar of Dibley village - travelling through Henley-on-Thames, another lovely town.

The flooding in the south and west of England have meant the Thames is running really well and in many low-lying areas there is still a lot of water lying around.
 The Thames as it runs through Henley-on-Thames

Turville - The Vicar of Dibley country

Turville - the little village used in the filming of the TV series, The Vicar of Dibley. It's not surprising it was chosen. It is just gorgeous with quaint cottages and a lovely church, St Mary's - not St Barnabas Church as it was in the series. 

Old Beams Cottage - Turville or the Vicarage in the Vicar of Dibley
St Mary's Church Turville - we met the Vicar too. He was really nice and 
pleased we purchased a couple of coffee cups
The beautiful interior of St Mary's

The pretty side entrance to the church.

The Bull and Butcher pub where we spent a lovely afternoon in the sun
The Cobstone Windmill overlooks Turville. It dates back to 1816 when it was used for grinding cereal.
It hs been used in the movie, Chitty, Chitty, Bang Bang; Midsomer Murders, Day of the Triffids, Jonathan Creek and many others.

While we were exploring this hill we noticed lots of very large birds circling. There were at least 20 of them. We found out later they were a combination of Red Kites and Buzzards. They looked like eagles. Quite spectacular to watch them ducking and diving.







We stayed the second last night at a little pub called the Nag's Head at Weston Turville! An hour's drive to the east of Turville. Haven't worked out the geography of that place yet plus the spelling is a bit off! Anyway it's a very old pub built for little people. Check out the top of the door frame into the bathroom. There's a couple of Mind Your Head signs in the room!

Next we head north to the English midlands, Derby, Matlock, then way west to the coast of Wales for a treat at Aberdovey.























Saturday, March 22, 2014

Oxford


We never tire of jumping on the Oxford Tube - actually a bus - for a visit to Oxford. The history of this university town is quite amazing. We all had a taste for the city through the original series of Morse and in more recent years the sequel to Morse, Lewis.

There are some lovely walks, it rains a lot - always take an umbrella, the vibrancy of the city and architecture is spectacular. For our second visit this trip again it rained and rained again. 

The Radcliffe Camera (Library) the main reading room of the famous nearby Bodleian Library. 
The two are linked by an underground tunnel. 


The Bodleian holds a copy of every book published in the United Kingdom and is used by scholars from around the world.

The intricate rooflines of St Mary the Virgin
Church
The view of part of the city from the 13th century tower of
St Mary the Virgin Church
The beautiful Bridge of Sighs which links the old and new quads of Hertford College. Built as recently as 1913, the bridge was actually named Hertford Bridge but no-one calls it that. It's adoptive name, Bridge of Sighs, is after the original bridge in Venice.
Our friends from Ebenhausen near Munich, Renate and Sabine, came across to London. We took them to Oxford and found some great pubs for lunch!

Oxford the third time round - sunshine

This trip we took our friends from Sweden, who had come to visit us in London. Perolov and Annette being Swedes, brought the sun with them for this excursion to Oxford. We decided on a tour on the hop-on, hop-off bus.  This gives a great opportunity to listen to excellent commentary on what you are seeing as you drive by.

Oxford Castle

The neo-classical Ashmolean Museum


Annette and Perolov outside another fabulous pub for lunch in Oxford - the Crown.
The Saxon Tower at the left is known as St Michael at the Northgate. The old tudor building is on the corner of Cornmarket Street


The Martyrs' Memorial - erected 300 years after the deaths of three churchmen who refused to renounce Protentantism. They were burned at the stake.

And on that note we'll move on to our trip to the south of England…...